Hi Darwin ::) ;D.
Just for some clarity, Darwin is my original GM/DM , without whom I would probably have never gotten into RPG's.  He has also been one of my long term players for the last ( holy crapola!!!), NINE years, I didn't think it had been THAT long (chuckle).  Currently Darwin plays a barbarian in my campaign and is one of the most abusive to my pieces (snicker), and aside from the cats (one of which is asleep in my lap right now), was one of the biggest reasons I decided to go durable.  He also has many more years of roleplaying under his belt than I do.  Recently he asked me to send him a link to this site and I'm glad to see he's a user now (lol).
As for my pics and instructions, I just replaced my ink carts and will be able to continue printing and assembling, expect more pics soon, and I will endeavor to have the rest of the instructions up for this weekend.
Thanx for your patience all.

P.S. manors is supposed to be manners (teehee).

Hey all.  Once again I am delayed in my instruction postings but for a good reason.  I spent all weekend engrossed in modifying the VillageWorks buildings.  I have built two prototype buildings (small & large plaster building), and I must say I am quite impressed with the results.  Both buildings are two stories, have wooden floors (printed from the P&I set), an opening front door, and are made from the same materials as previously listed (I have also finished a wagon, bridge, stone hut, tent and am working on several others).
On that note, I now have a name for the backing board I've been using, Mat board.  I visited a local art supply store (Opus), and found a huge selection of what I was looking for.  The Mat board I chose is acid free (this is important as it will not damage the printed ink pieces over time), and runs at around $8.50 Can. for a 32 X 40 inch (2.8 X 3.4 ft) sheet.  One sheet can produce about 100-200 (or more) pieces of furniture, or about 6-10 houses, depending on size.  Price wise, the average piece of furniture, 5-10 cents, buildings, 75 cents too $1.00, personally I hardly notice and consider it a worthwhile investment (I also should have remembered earlier that this is the same material they used to make the furniture and other objects from HeroQuest, oh well nobody's perfect ).  I also found a Mat cutter (for 45 degree cuts) there and they're available in three styles.  Push ($30-35 Can), Pull ($40-45 Can), and a large one for around $200.00 Can, a little out of my price range (I personally went for the push as it was the cheapest and I am impressed with the 45 degree cuts it makes.  I am working on getting the rest of my instructions up but am very busy at the moment.  I promise I havn't forgotten.  Soon, very soon!

Adv. Furniture Instructions Castles & Keeps and Pubs & Inns:


Fireplace (both sets):
1) Follow steps #1-3 from basic furn. instructions, with the following alterations.  Remove the white outlined folding tabs as well as the piece that connects the fire to the fireplace interior (archway is optional as it works either way).  Before you glue the piece to Mat board you should have 3 pieces cut out (fireplace, fire, and inside of fireplace).  At step #3 you should have 11 pieces ready for final assembly (front, 2 sides, back, top, fire, bottom attached to fire, inside back wall, 2 inside side walls, inside bottom attached to back wall).

2) Follow step #4 from basic furn. instructions and 45 the outside back, 2 sides, top and front pieces along the edges to be connected (for a smoother look, you can 45 degree the joins where the inside side walls meet the outside front, otherwise you will have to trim the side walls to fit before gluing due to the thickness of the Mat board).

3a) Glue and assemble the outside of the fireplace and let sit
3b) Glue the inside of the fireplace to the bottom and sides that were removed in step #2 during the segmenting process.
3c) Glue the fire to the floor piece it was removed from.
3d) Glue the fire piece to the inside piece and let sit
3e) Fit the outside of the fireplace to the inside to insure a good fit, and glue where the joins meet.

Bed (both sets):
1) Follow steps #1-3 from basic furn. instructions with the following alterations.  At step #2 segment the piece into 5 pieces before gluing (from top of printout to bottom: headboard outside, headboard inside, bed, footboard inside, footboard outside).  Glue only the bed, headboard outside and footboard outside to the Mat board.  At step #3 you should have 5 pieces glued to Mat board when you've finished segmenting the pieces, and 2 cardstock or paper pieces (Glued pieces: headboard outside, footboard outside, bed top, bed sides (2). Unglued: headboard and footboard insides).  Glue the headboard and footboard outsides to the insides (make sure everything lines up properly, I highly recommend you remove any black areas you planned on removing on the Mat board pieces before you glue the pieces together, then trim the excess from the cardstock piece once your sure everything lines up properly).
(Note: in the case of the P&I bed, you will only have to follow these instructions for the headboard as there is no footboard, after gluing to Mat board you should have 2 pieces glued (bed, and outside headboard) and one not (inside headboard), during the segmenting process you will still have 5 pieces for assembly.)

2) Follow step #4 from basic furn. instructions with the following alterations.
2a) C&K: 45 the sides and top of the bed where they connect.
2b) P&I: 45 the top and sides and foot of the bed where they connect.

3) Glue the sides and footboard to the top of the bed, then the headboard.

Ladder (C&K):
1) Follow steps #1-3 from basic furniture instructions with the following alterations.  Segment the piece into 7 pieces before gluing to the Mat board (cut out all pieces along their fold lines).  Glue the outsides and the ladder pieces to the Mat board. Glue the inside pieces to each of the outside pieces (2 per Mat boarded side piece).

2) You should have three pieces ready for assembly (sides and ladder).  Glue together where the pieces would normally fold and let dry.
(Note: there are no 45 degree cuts required for this prop.)

Tables (both):
Follow steps #1-3 from basic furn. instructions with the following alterations.

Round Stone table (C&K):
Take the table edge piece you trimmed from the Mat board and separate it at its 7 fold points, then repeat with the base piece at its 3 fold points.  Make 45 degree cuts along the edges of the base pieces (4), the underside edges of the table top, and the 8 edge pieces where they connect to each other and the table top (although I didn't try it myself, it might be easier to leave the table edge piece as cardstock as this is a difficult piece to work with.  I also suggest making your long 45 degree cut where the table and edge meet before you segment the edge piece into eight separate pieces).  Glue together (I have no real helpful hints at this point except have fun, a different angle of the stone table in my pics shows the edge and the table top were not lined up properly), and let dry.

Nightstand, Keg table, Rectangular and Square tables (P&I):
Glue the table top and outside legs to the Mat board, leave the inside legs for now.  Trim away the black portions from the legs, you will end up with 4 pieces (2 individual legs and 2 back-to-back legs).  Glue these to the cardstock piece lining them up in the correct place, let dry.  Trim away the black portions of the excess cardstock using the glued Mat board pieces as a guide, this will give you a nice clean edge.  Seperate the back-to-back leg pieces and glue these pieces into place along the underside of the table.
(Note: there are no 45 degree cuts required for this prop.)

1c) Rectangular Longtables and Square tables (C&K):
Glue the table top and outside legs to the Mat board, leave the inside legs for now.  Trim away the black portions from the outside legs.  Glue the outside piece to the inside legs, make sure the center leg is lined up properly, let dry.  Then trim away the black portion of the excess cardstock using the glued Mat board piece as a cutting guide, again this will give you a nice clean edge.  Make 45 degree cuts where the table top and legs join together.  Glue together and let dry.

1d) Round Wooden table (P&I):
Glue the table top to the Mat board as normal, however for the legs you have to cut them where they fold back-to-back before you glue one side only to the Mat board.  Cut out and glue the cardstock leg segments to the Mat boarded ones.  Cut 2 of the legs in half where the would normally be cut for fit together assembly.  You should now have 4 half legs, 2 legs, and 2 table tops.  Glue 2 of the half leg pieces to one of the full leg pieces to make the bottom, then measure to the centre of your table top (or eyeball it) and glue together.
(Note: there are no 45 degree cuts required for this prop.)

Barstool (P&I):
Glue seat and outside leg pieces to Mat board, cut out and glue inside legs in place.  45 the two leg pieces and the seat where they connect, then glue together.

Throne (C&K):
Segment the throne into 8 pieces by cutting it at all fold points.  Glue the throne outside back, seat, outside sides (2), and front piece to Mat board.  Trim out.  Glue the inside arm side pieces to the outside arm and leg pieces, and the inside back piece to the outside back piece.  45 the front piece and the side pieces where they join.  Assemble the seat, sides and front, then attach the back.

I will try to get the last instructions up (chairs, keg, and bench) asap.  For now this is most of the furniture instructions, and the last three are the hardest to pull off, they take a lot of patience and a little more commitment than the others I have listed.  I will try my best to get pics up in the near future of my buildings and assembly in process, I know you'll love what I've pulled off with my VillageWorks mods.  
Later .

I have edited my first post in this topic with the links to my pics at DKD's site, rather than DKD's site in general, hope this alleviates any confusion or mixups (No I am not kicking a dead horse).

*Edit: I have once again edited the links in this post to go to DKD's new site.

This is the updated link to the pics for this as the original pics have been moved to DKD's site .