Just finished building a new 4x6 40k board for my FLGS. It is a more traditional wood, foam and plaster affair built with modular sections and can be stored as a 2'x2'x8" stack. It is pretty popular with the store crowd, but after finishing it I realized that it just does not quite have the same detail/character I get from the same size WWG board in many ways. While I have been asked to make swamp board the same way , I am seriously considering doing a foamcore and WWG Swampworks build for it instead.

Am I the only one that feels this way?

(Did decide that both have issues with slopes and models sliding though.)

For tabletop terrain like hills, streams, trees, and the like I still prefer the old techniques, though I am not a huge fan of plaster.

Buildings, paper.

The Auld Grump

My only issue with anything cardstock is that it tends to be light an bumped pretty easily, but on the major plus side, it's very light and easy to transport. What I've been doing lately is mounting the printouts on foamcore and using hotglue to put the walls together. Sure I no longer have a modular set of walls, but I get completed building which I usually mount to mdf and then add flock/gravel/etc for the ground. The mdf as a base makes the buildings more stable.

When I want to move the action inside, then I use something like TerrainLinx or Interiors on a battle board.

I have been making lots of trees, using the Hinterlands set, building just the trunks and attaching them to a penny and the penny to a round base. Works very well as the players know it's a tree, but no foliage gets in the way of hands when moving minis around.

So for ground, I really prefer the foam and plaster/flocking route over cardstock.

Preference 1st Plaster 2nd cardstock.

Personally I am a fan of Hirst moulds and love building my own items with the cast plaster bricks etc.
I came across this site in the Hirst forum and do enjoy the modern cardstock items than I cannot plaster cast eg cars, interior walls etc.

To me this site and Hirst covers all of my 'building' requirements at present.

many thanks to both ( i do know there are a few like me on both sites)

About nine months ago I bought two magnetic dry erase boards (each 2'x4') with a black finish that I can combine to make my boards with. I print out the tiles using Avery magnetic sheets. Since they are dry erase as well, I first use the boards to plan the layout. I can move around the tiles just as easily as any other planer. Needless to say the tiles do not shift, no notching or wrapping required, and they can be stored quite easly.

The cardstock models are fit with a paper hinged bottom. A thin square of magnetic self-glued paper (I cut magnetic business cards in half. You onlly need a half of a card per building) is afixed to the bottom. The model won't budge when set on the board. When you wish to remove the model you simply tilt the hinge edge of the model and a tab pops out to pull the model's bottom from the board in one swift second, no damage at all to your build.

It works for me at least.

I am going to try using it for TLX posts as well. In that case all of the layers above the board would be foamcore, but I think there is a way to do it by using a post mag cap mated to ... to be yet determined.

I will second your idea being a great one. I would love it if you could start a thread with pictures Andaman quick coattails breakdown of materials.

There really isn't a need to use anchors for the posts on the ground level. I insert the same type of paper hinge on them as any model. Its the upper foamcore tile flats where I need to figure something out or just use the regular TLX anchors for those levels. I'd hate to have to do that though. I think some sort of post plug cap might work. I need to work one up and test it. I love TLX but I want to take the tile and post drudgery out of it somehow while making it rock solid for playing.

I buy my Avery magnetic sheet stock from Amazon. It is $8.40 something for five sheets and I don't waste any of it if at all possible ... tree bases, props, and all sorts niggly things.

I'll try to explain better the paper hinge bottom. Basically it is like the static mount offered with SwiftScenic models, but with wider tabs and only one side is glued in place thus making a hinged bottom. The opposite side will pop out when the model is tipped. Use that tab to release the model from the board. You can also use a hinged bottom with models that have interiors.

When I get everything solved using this with mutiple TLX levels I'll write it up with pictures and send it to you Talae to post.

I've started to get back into the old school terrain building just for the time being (mostly because my main computer is dead and I've only got my net book right now). I've been using Pizza Boxes, wooden dowels, wire, PVC board, mat board and card stock.

[quote="Highland_Piper"]I've started to get back into the old school terrain building just for the time being (mostly because my main computer is dead and I've only got my net book right now). I've been using Pizza Boxes, wooden dowels, wire, PVC board, mat board and card stock.



And what looks like a bit of green stuff

a "BIT"????

are u insulating the sides of the pizza box?

are you going to paint that right?

if so... HOW?

pizza box can handle a primer spray i presume....
but how do you paint it without becoming soggy?

... by coating it with PVA-glue first? Also, mixed with sand that would give a nice texture.

Also, I've had great success with using wall filler for texturing purposes.

Regular craft paint, applied in normal, thin layers shouldn't affect pizza box cardboard much, if at all. Maybe some slight warping of the paper wrapper, but structurally it should have zero effect.

Remember, we're talking about stuff that will be at a gaming table, not a diorama in the Smithsonian. It will likely be fine.

There is a UK based website where the members share ideas on making tabletop terrain.
TerraGenesis.co.uk
Some interesting techniques and results are shown.